Star Worship Transcending 1300 Years: Yatsushiro Jinja (Myoken-gu) and the Mystery of the ‘Kida’ (Turtle-Snake) that Crossed the Sea

Yatsushiro jinja, located in Yatsushiro City, Kumamoto Prefecture, has long been affectionately known as “Myoken-san.” It is renowned as a sacred site of Myoken faith, which deifies the North Star and Big Dipper. This jinja is counted as one of “Japan’s Three Great Myoken Shrines,” alongside Sōma Myoken in Fukushima Prefecture and Chichibu Myoken in Saitama Prefecture. Along with its profound history, it is imbued with enigmatic legends and mysteries.

Basic Information

Name: Yatsushiro jinja (formerly Myokengu)
Location: 405 Myoken-cho, Yatsushiro City, Kumamoto Prefecture
Enshrined kami: Ame-no-Minakanushi-no-Kami, Kuni-no-Tokotachi-no-Mikoto
Founded: The 9th year of the Hakuhō era (680 AD)
Main Festival: Yatsushiro Myoken Festival (November 22nd and 23rd) ※UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage

The Legend of Kida, the Mysterious Sea-Crossing Creature

Indispensable to the history of Yatsushiro jinja is the legendary creature known as Kida, an imaginary animal. Locals affectionately call it “Game.”

According to legend, when Myoken kami journeyed from China (then known as Mingzhou) across the sea to Japan in 680 AD, Kida was said to have carried the kami on its back. Kida is described as a creature with the body of a turtle and the head and tail of a snake. Myoken kami landed at Takewara-no-tsu in Yatsushiro City, and subsequently settled at the current site of Yatsushiro jinja.

While Kida is believed to have roots in Genbu, one of China’s Four Symbols, it has evolved uniquely in Yatsushiro. During festivals, you can witness its humorous yet magnificent dance.

The Yatsushiro Myoken Festival, One of Kyushu’s Three Great Festivals, and Its Mysteries

Held annually in November, the Yatsushiro Myoken Festival is a lavish and spectacular event registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Moving Works of Art: Kasaboko Floats: Nine Kasaboko floats accompany the Shinko Gyoretsu (divine procession). These floats are adorned with magnificent decorations, showcasing the craftsmanship of Edo period artisans.
The Three Attendants: Mebuka, Tenaga, Ashihaya: There is a mysterious legend that when Myoken kami arrived, it was accompanied by three attendants: Mebuka (deep-eyed), Tenaga (long-armed), and Ashihaya (fast-footed). These figures are said to symbolize individuals with special abilities or possibly immigrants, hinting at the mysteries of ancient international exchange.

Pilgrimage Information: Yatsushiro’s Scenery in Anime

Yatsushiro jinja and its surroundings have garnered attention as settings and models for popular anime works.

Natsume’s Book of Friends: While primarily set in the Hitoyoshi and Kuma regions of Kumamoto Prefecture, Yatsushiro City is also a significant model location. In the anime, the atmosphere of festivals reminiscent of the Yatsushiro Myoken Festival and the solemn ambiance of the jinja align with the series’ worldview, attracting many fans for pilgrimage.
Pole Princess!!: Set in Yatsushiro City, the anime features the torii gate and grounds of Yatsushiro jinja. The history and culture of the Myoken Festival also influence the story’s background, making it an essential spot for fans.

Behind the Scenes of Worship: The Three-Shrine System of Kamiya, Chugu, and Gegu

The Yatsushiro jinja that we typically visit today is Gegu (lower shrine). In reality, there are remnants of Kamiya (upper shrine) at the summit of Mt. Mimuro (Yokodake) behind it, and Chugu (middle shrine) at the base of the mountain. Historically, the faith was organized around a three-shrine system.

Reaching Kamiya requires a strenuous hike up a mountain path, but it is imbued with a sacred aura as the very “place where stars descended.” For those confident in their physical abilities, aiming for the Kamiya site, the origin of Myoken faith, might offer a profound way to experience the pilgrimage.

Imbued with the power of the stars and home to legends that crossed the seas, Yatsushiro jinja truly comes alive. We invite you to experience its mysterious history firsthand, alongside the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage festival.

By ando