By ando 
Hatsukaichi Tenmangu jinja is nestled on a hill overlooking the city of Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima Prefecture, directly across from Miyajima island. This jinja not only enshrines Sugawara no Michizane, revered as the kami of scholarship, but also serves as a fascinating spot that conveys the origins of this town and the spirit of its samurai warriors of the past. This time, we will introduce little-known stories cherished by locals, along with must-see pilgrimage information for anime fans.
Basic Information
Enshrined kami: Sugawara no Michizane
Location: 3-2 Tenjin, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture
Founded: Tenpuku 1 (1233)
Access: Approximately 5-10 minutes walk from Hiroden Hatsukaichi Station or JR Hatsukaichi Station.
Is the Origin of the Place Name “Hatsukaichi” Here?
Do you know the origin of the unique place name ‘Hatsukaichi’? It actually has a deep connection with this Tenmangu jinja.
The history of this jinja began during the Kamakura period when Fujiwara no Chikazane, who was appointed as the head priest (kannushi) of Itsukushima jinja, invited Egara Tenjin from Kamakura as his personal guardian kami. At that time, Itsukushima jinja held four major festivals annually, and the final day was always the 20th of the month. In conjunction with these festivals, a market (ichi) began to be held on the 20th of every month, which is said to have become the origin of the place name Hatsukaichi (‘hatsu’ meaning 20, ‘ichi’ meaning market). This jinja is truly the guardian kami that has watched over the birth of this town.
A Behind-the-Scenes Story from History: “The Imperial Princess’s Calligraphy” Brought Forth by a Woman’s Talent
Look up at the torii gate of Hatsukaichi Tenmangu jinja, and you’ll see a magnificent plaque bearing the jinja’s name (shingo). Hidden within this detail is an elegant episode from the Edo period.
Around 1750, there lived a remarkably intelligent woman named Eiko at a local temple called Komyoji. She possessed exceptional talent for waka poetry, and when she traveled to Kyoto, her poems were highly praised by the Grand Counselor (Dainagon) of the time. As a reward, what she wished for was not for herself, but “to receive a magnificent shingo for her local ujigami (guardian kami), Tenmangu jinja.”
Her wish was granted, and the Imperial Princess, Reikanji Soshinnomiya, personally penned the shingo. The plaque currently displayed on the torii gate is a copy of that original work, a historical mystery where one woman’s love for her hometown and her talent took tangible form.
A Must-See for Castle Enthusiasts! The Jinja Grounds, Once Part of “Nanao-jo Castle”
In fact, Mt. Sasao, where Hatsukaichi Tenmangu jinja stands, was once part of a Sengoku period (Warring States period) fortress.
At that time, this region was protected by a robust defensive network called Nanao-jo Castle, which centered around Sakurao-jo Castle as the main stronghold, with additional fortresses built on six surrounding mountains. The current location of Tenmangu jinja is the former site of one of these fortresses, Sasao-jo Castle. The steep stairs of the approach path might reflect the ruggedness of the former castle.
Superb Views and the “Nade-Ushi” Power Spot
The jinja grounds are located on a hill also known as “Tenjin-yama” (Mt. Tenjin). From here, you can gaze down upon the cityscape of Hatsukaichi and the Seto Inland Sea, and in the distance, you can even see the great torii gate of the World Heritage site, Itsukushima jinja, on Miyajima.
Moreover, when one thinks of Tenjin-sama (Sugawara no Michizane), one thinks of the ox. Within the grounds is enshrined a “Nade-Ushi” (Petting Ox). It is believed that if you stroke the same part of the ox as the ailing part of your own body, your illness will be cured; stroking its head is said to bestow wisdom. During examination season, many students can be seen stroking this ox, praying for success in their exams.
Anime Pilgrimage Information: The World of ‘Tamayura’
Hatsukaichi Tenmangu jinja is also a significant location for anime fans.
In the popular anime series “Tamayura,” which primarily takes place in Takehara City, Hiroshima Prefecture, the Hatsukaichi area also features in some scenes. In particular, the view of the Seto Inland Sea from Tenmangu jinja and the serene atmosphere of its grounds resonate with the gentle worldview of the series, making it a popular spot for fans to visit as part of their “sacred site pilgrimage” (seichi junrei).
History, superb views, and the world of anime. Hatsukaichi Tenmangu jinja is a jinja filled with a mysterious charm, offering new discoveries with every visit. When visiting Miyajima, why not extend your journey slightly and experience the historical origins of this town?
Related Links and References
[1] https://www.hatsukaichitenmangu.or.jp/about
[2] https://www.hatsukaichitenmangu.or.jp/kenmu/
[3] https://note.com/tenchiwago/n/n53ec958a18ca
[4] https://www.ikimi.jp/sugawaranomichizane/ushi.html
[5] https://hatsu-navi.jp/historical-spots/hatsukaichitenmangu/
[6] https://jinmyocho.jpn.org/jinja/33hiroshimananbu/1143/1143.html
[7] https://dive-hiroshima.com/explore/1430/
[8] https://suoyamaguchi-palace.com/sue-castle/hatsukaichitenmangu/
[9] http://hikog.gokenin.com/tenmanguusyougakuin.html
[10] https://www.bm-peekaboo.com/leave/5-297/