By ando 
Fukuyama Hachimangu (fukuyama hachimangu) is located north of Fukuyama Castle in Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture. At first glance, it appears to be a magnificent jinja, but step inside, and a sight that surprises everyone will unfold. There, a certain mystery, extremely rare nationwide, is hidden.
Basic Information
The jinja is located at 1-2-16 Kitayoshizu-cho, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture. The enshrined kami are Emperor Ojin (Ojin Tenno), Empress Jingu (Jingu Kogo), and Hime Okami (hime okami). It was founded in Tenna 3 (1683). Visitors seek divine blessings for protection from evil, good fortune, prayers for victory, family safety, and more.
Is it unique in Japan!? Two shrine buildings lined up like “mirror images.”
The biggest feature of Fukuyama Hachimangu is that there are two shrine buildings of exactly the same size and style lined up on its grounds.
There are two approaches (sando), two torii gates, two stone staircases, and everything from the Zuishinmon gate to the haiden (worship hall) and honden (main hall) is arranged symmetrically, as if reflected in a mirror.
The right side (as you face the jinja) is the Higashi-on-omiya (higashi onomiya), and the left side is the Nishi-on-omiya (nishi onomiya).
Normally, when multiple kami are enshrined in one place, they are goshisai (enshrined together) in a single building. So why were two separate shrine buildings intentionally placed side-by-side here?
The untold story: The wisdom of a wise lord who protected the “pride” of samurai and townspeople.
The history of the Fukuyama Domain during the Edo period is deeply involved in this mysterious structure.
Originally, there were two different Hachimangu jinja in this area: Nobuhiro Hachimangu (nobuhiro hachimangu), which garnered the faith of townspeople (merchants), and Nogami Hachimangu (nogami hachimangu), which was cherished by samurai (domain warriors).
The successive lords of the Fukuyama Domain decided that neither of the two shrines could be prioritized. Under an egalitarian governance policy stating that “both samurai and townspeople should be equally watched over by the kami,” the 4th lord, Mizuno Katsutane, had both shrines built side-by-side with exactly the same status.
This “Ryosha Hachiman” (Two-Shrine Hachiman) style can be said to be a unique and thoughtful measure by the Fukuyama Domain, which valued harmony among its people despite the social hierarchy of the time.
Legend and Mystery: A place that was once “sea.”
Ancient legends remain about Matsunoyama (matsunoyama), the mountain where the jinja stands.
It is said that the entire area of Fukuyama’s castle town was once an inland sea called “Ana no Umi.” The current locations of Fukuyama Castle and Fukuyama Hachimangu are believed to have been islands or capes floating in the sea.
While Higashi-on-omiya is said to have been invited (kanjo) from Usa Hachimangu and Nishi-on-omiya from Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, there is also a theory that some form of worship existed in this area since ancient times, even before that. This makes one feel the powerful energy inherent in the land of Fukuyama itself.
The strongest power spot: Sobi Jinja.
Don’t miss Sobi Jinja (sobin jinja) (currently enshrined behind Nishi-on-omiya), which was originally located between the two shrine buildings.
Here, Mizuno Katsunari (Mizuno Katsunari-ko), the first lord of the Fukuyama Domain and renowned as one of the strongest samurai warriors of the Sengoku period, is enshrined.
Lord Katsunari, a cousin of Tokugawa Ieyasu, achieved numerous military exploits. Due to his powerful divine blessings (goshintoku), it is known as a hidden power spot, constantly visited by worshippers seeking success in crucial moments or wishing to overcome difficulties.
Key point for worship: The presence of the Central Haiden.
In Showa 44 (1969), the two jinja merged as a legal entity, becoming the current Fukuyama Hachimangu.
In 1984, a “Central Haiden” was newly built, connecting the two shrine buildings. This resulted in an even more spectacular view, with three shrine buildings — east, center, and west — lined up horizontally.
The Nishi-on-omiya’s vibrant polychromatic decoration has been restored through Heisei era renovations, and its beauty is breathtaking.
When you visit Fukuyama Castle, be sure to also make your way to this “Twin Jinja” located to its north.
Which of the two sando will you walk, or will you take in the entire view from the center? While reflecting on the history of samurai and townspeople, why not experience this unique and mysterious space found nowhere else in the country?