Kusunoki Masashige’s Beloved “Water Kami” Take Mikumari Jinja: A Mystery Spot Where the Soul of Battleship Kongō Rests

Takemikumari Jinja is located in Chihaya Akasaka Village, the only village in Osaka Prefecture. Locally, it is affectionately known as “Suibun-san.” However, this shrine is actually a place full of surprising stories that attract not only history buffs but also anime fans.

Basic Information
Location: 357 Suibun, Chihaya Akasaka Village, Minamikawachi District, Osaka Prefecture
Main kami enshrined: Amenominakanushi no kami (Central Hall), Amenomikumari no kami and Mizuhamenome no kami (Left Hall), Kunimikumari no kami and Seoritsuhime no kami (Right Hall)
Founded: An ancient jinja believed to have been established in the 5th year of Emperor Sujin’s reign (92 BC).

Nation’s Only Architectural Style: Mikumari-zukuri
First, what deserves attention is the Main Hall (honden), which is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. It features a unique architectural style called “Mikumari-zukuri,” unseen anywhere else in Japan, where three halls of different styles – the central hall in Kasuga-zukuri and the left and right halls in Nagare-zukuri – are connected by corridors. Although usually not open to the public, the intricate carvings and cypress bark (hinoki-hada-buki) roofs visible through the gaps convey the atmosphere of the Nanboku-cho period (Northern and Southern Courts period).

The Legend of Kusunoki Masashige’s Clever Stratagem: “Straw Dolls”
This jinja is also known as the tutelary shrine (ujigami) of Kusunoki Masashige, a hero of the late Kamakura period. There is a famous episode where Masashige, defending Akasaka Castle against the Shogunate army, tricked the enemy by dressing straw dolls in armor to make them appear as soldiers. At Takemikumari Jinja, “straw doll clay bells” (waraningyo no dorei) inspired by this legend are given as lucky charms for warding off misfortune and inviting good fortune. Many visitors come to benefit from the wisdom of Masashige, who was known as a military genius.

Emperor Go-Daigo Personally Carved the Goshintai?
Nagi Jinja, a subsidiary shrine (setsu-sha) located within the grounds, is Japan’s oldest jinja dedicated to Kusunoki Masashige. What’s surprising is the backstory concerning its sacred object (goshintai). It is said that Emperor Go-Daigo, saddened by Masashige’s death in battle, personally carved a wooden statue of Masashige and presented it as the goshintai. This mysterious legend, with the exceptional honor of an emperor personally undertaking the carving, speaks to the profound trust he placed in Masashige.

Battleship Kongo and the ‘Sacred Site’ of the Anime ‘Kantai Collection’
An unexpected historical connection is its link to the Imperial Japanese Navy battleship “Kongo.” Because Takemikumari Jinja is the guardian shrine (sochinju) of Mount Kongo, a branch of its kami (gobunrei) was enshrined in the ship’s onboard shrine (kan’nai jinja) on the battleship Kongo. It was customary for the crew, including the captain, to visit and worship it as the ship’s guardian kami.

Due to this connection, among fans (known as “Admirals”) of the popular anime “Kantai Collection -KanColle-,” this shrine is known as a “sacred site” to trace the roots of the character “Kongo.” It is truly fascinating how the guardian kami of a historic battleship is connected to modern anime culture.

Osaka Prefecture’s Largest Stone Structures
As you proceed along the approach (sando), a large torii gate and the komainu (guardian lion-dogs) standing beside it will catch your eye. These boast the largest scale of stone structures within Osaka Prefecture. The imposing presence of the moss-covered komainu, in particular, is magnificent, and you will undoubtedly be overwhelmed by the powerful atmosphere protecting the sacred grounds.

From the stage of history to the world of anime, Takemikumari Jinja is loved across time and space. Why not experience its profound history and mysteries, alongside the rich natural beauty of Chihaya Akasaka Village?

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By ando