By ando 
Furufu Jinja, located in Oicho, Izumi City, Osaka Prefecture. At first glance, it appears to be a quiet, local guardian kami. However, the name ‘Furufu’ (meaning ‘old provincial capital’) inscribed within it conceals a grand history and mystery related to the origins of Izumi Province. This time, we delve into the allure of this ancient shrine, known to a select few.
Basic Information about Furufu Jinja
Location: 2-12-1 Oicho, Izumi City, Osaka Prefecture
Enshrined Kami: Susanoo-no-Mikoto, Kushinadahime-no-Mikoto
History: It is a Shikinaisha (a shrine listed in the Engishiki Jinmyocho, an ancient record of shrines) and boasts a very high shrine ranking.
The Mystery of the Lost Provincial Capital Indicated by the Name ‘Furufu’
The biggest highlight of this jinja lies in its name. ‘Furufu’ means ‘old provincial capital’ (government office).
While the common theory states that the provincial capital of Izumi Province was located in the present-day Fuchucho, Izumi City (around JR Izumi-Fuchu Station), according to the shrine’s own tradition and local legends, it is said that “a provincial capital existed on this very site even before Fuchu.”
This suggests that this area might have been the ‘first central hub’ of Izumi Province. Why did the provincial capital move, and why was this place specifically named ‘old’? No clear records remain, and among ancient history enthusiasts, it is passed down as ‘the Izumi Province mystery’.
A Deep Connection with Kuzunoha, the Legendary White Fox
The area where Furufu Jinja stands has long been considered part of Shinoda-no-Mori (Shinoda Forest). Shinoda Forest is famous for the legend of Kuzunoha, the white fox said to be the mother of Abe no Seimei, the legendary onmyoji (diviner).
Around the jinja, there are various spots associated with the poem “If you miss me, come and visit me in Shinoda Forest in Izumi, where the resentful Kuzunoha resides,” which Kuzunoha is said to have left when she disappeared. Furufu Jinja itself is located at the entrance to this deep forest, the stage of the legend. Within the precincts, a tranquil and somewhat mystical atmosphere hangs, as if a fox might appear at any moment.
Behind the Scenes: The Pride of a Shikinaisha Preserved by Locals
In fact, during a period in the Meiji era, there was a risk that it would be consolidated (goushi, combining multiple shrines into one) with neighboring shrines. However, thanks to the strong wishes and devotion of the local residents, it was preserved as an independent jinja in this very spot.
Even today, while it lacks elaborate decorations, the well-maintained precincts convey how much the local people cherish this place as ‘their roots’.
Pilgrimage Information: Abe no Seimei and ‘Twin Star Exorcists’
Due to the legend of Abe no Seimei’s birth in this area, it has become a sacred site for fans of works related to onmyoji.
In particular, in the popular manga and anime ‘Twin Star Exorcists,’ Kuzunoha and Abe no Seimei appear as important keywords in the story. When touring the Shinoda Forest area, which served as a motif for the work’s setting, Furufu Jinja, with its strong historical background, can be considered a hidden key spot for a deeper appreciation of the work’s world.
Tips for Visiting
The jinja grounds are extremely quiet and surrounded by trees, allowing you to feel a cool, refreshing air even in summer. Although it’s a little distance from Izumi-Fuchu Station, we recommend visiting it as part of a walking course to trace the legends of Shinoda Forest, all while reflecting on the ancient provincial capital.
While set a step back from the main stage of history, Furufu Jinja evokes a sense of the ‘origin’ of Izumi Province. It is one of Osaka’s leading ancient shrines, a must-visit for anyone who enjoys a good mystery.
Related Links and References
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