By ando 
In Iwata City, Shizuoka Prefecture, a historic town that once served as the provincial capital (kokufu) of Totomi Province (Totoumi no Kuni), stands Awano Kunitama Jinja, quietly yet with an unmistakable air of dignity.
While its grounds may appear tranquil at first glance, this is actually a highly prestigious Soja (Shrine of All Kami), a unique place where you can worship all the kami of Totomi Province at once. In this article, we will delve into the mysteries hidden within this jinja, the story of its unusual Komausagi (guardian rabbits), and its connection to a popular anime.
Basic Information
Location: 2452-2 Mitsuke (Babacho), Iwata City, Shizuoka Prefecture
Main Kami Enshrined: Okuninushi no Mikoto
Shrine Status: Soja of Totomi Province, Shikinaisha, Former Prefectural Shrine
1. The Mystery of the Name “Awa”: A Kami from Lake Biwa?
The word “Awa” (or Omi) in the jinja’s name might make many people think of “Omi” in Shiga Prefecture.
In fact, there is a mysterious legend surrounding the history of this jinja. One theory suggests that the main kami, Okuninushi no Mikoto, once came to this land from Lake Biwa in Omi Province (Shiga Prefecture).
On the other hand, Hamanako Lake in western Shizuoka Prefecture was historically known as “Totsu Awaumi” (the distant freshwater lake), which is the origin of the name “Totomi.” It is also said that the jinja was named “Awano Kunitama” to enshrine the spirit of this land, contrasting with Lake Biwa’s “Chikatsu Awaumi” (the nearby freshwater lake). This gives the name a romantic quality, evoking a sense of ancient connections between the east and west.
2. A Sacred Site for Matchmaking Welcomed by Komausagi (Guardian Rabbits) Instead of Komainu (Guardian Dogs)
Visitors to Awano Kunitama Jinja are not greeted by the usual komainu (guardian dogs) in front of the worship hall (haiden). Instead, they are met by adorable “Komausagi” (guardian rabbits).
Why rabbits? This is because the main kami is Okuninushi no Mikoto, also known as Daikoku-sama. Okuninushi no Mikoto famously helped a wounded rabbit in the myth of “The White Rabbit of Inaba.” Due to this connection, rabbits are cherished here as messengers of the kami.
These Komausegi are not only unusual but also popular as symbols of “enmusubi” (matchmaking or good relationships). It is said that gently stroking them will bring good fortune in relationships.
3. A Soja: The Ultimate Power Spot
During the Heian Period, provincial governors (kokushi), who were assigned from the capital, had a duty to visit and pay respects at all the major jinja within their province. However, traveling throughout the vast Totomi Province was a formidable task.
To address this, a “Soja” was established near the provincial capital. This system allowed all the kami of the province to be enshrined together, making it possible to pay respects to all of them by visiting just this one location – an incredibly time-efficient solution.
In other words, visiting Awano Kunitama Jinja brings the same blessings as paying respects to all the kami throughout Totomi Province. It is truly a place worthy of being called the “ultimate power spot.”
4. A Hidden Spot for “Yuru Camp△” Anime Pilgrimage
Speaking of the Mitsuke area in Iwata City, it is also famous as a pilgrimage site for the anime “Yuru Camp△” (Laid-Back Camp), beloved by camping enthusiasts.
Mitsuke Tenjin (Yanahime Jinja), which protagonist Rin Shima visited in episodes like Season 2, Episode 2, is located right next to (within walking distance of) Awano Kunitama Jinja.
When anime fans visit Mitsuke Tenjin in search of the “Shippei Taro” legend, Awano Kunitama Jinja is a common accompanying stop. The landscape, woven from the retro Western-style architecture of the adjacent Former Mitsuke School and the traditional Japanese ambiance of the jinja, forms an essential route for experiencing the historical atmosphere of Mitsuke-juku, which served as a setting for the anime.
5. Deep Connection to the Mysterious Midnight “Mitsuke Tenjin Hadaka Matsuri”
The “Mitsuke Tenjin Hadaka Matsuri” (Naked Festival) is a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. In fact, Awano Kunitama Jinja plays a crucial role in the climax of this festival.
Late at night, a mikoshi (portable shrine) departs from Mitsuke Tenjin and processes (togyo) through the darkness to Awano Kunitama Jinja. Here, at this Soja, a mystical ritual takes place where the kami interact. A tradition where fervor and stillness intertwine, unimaginable from its usual quietude, continues to thrive.
Awano Kunitama Jinja is highly recommended for history buffs and shrine-goers, as well as those looking to be charmed by the adorable Komausegi, and even fans of “Yuru Camp△.”
Why not visit it along with the adjacent Former Mitsuke School and experience the profound history of Totomi firsthand?
Related Links and References